BoomerGirl Diary

No. 1 city in the United States to live, at least that’s what Cities Ranked and Rated said about Gainesville, Fla., this past May. Made we wonder exactly what was so special about Gainesville. Made we want to visit and see for myself.

Now, a lot of the factors that go into Cities Ranked and Rated are not “tourist” based. They have to do with cost-of-living, housing, available services, transportation, and all the things that make day-to-day life less stressful and more rewarding. Like no state income taxes. Like lower-than-average housing costs. Like decent food at reasonable prices. The list goes on …

That aside, Gainesville is a treat for tourists. There’s the University of Florida (third largest in the U.S.) with an expansive campus and all of the extras (cultural, entertainment and dining) that come with a student population. At the same time, it has a small-town feel, with a walkable downtown and ethnic enclaves. It is surrounded by natural springs and state parks, and the recreational options (swimming, kayak and canoe, hiking, etc.) are rich. Plus, drive for an hour or so in either direction and you hit an ocean — the Atlantic and the Gulf. Quite a location!

Gainesville is north Florida, and can feel more like Georgia in terms of pace and attitude on a hot summer day than the more frenetic, beach-and-tourist marathon of Miami and southern Florida. The Timucua, a native tribe from which many towns and landmarks get their names, were the native peoples of the region. Cattle ranching, once the Spanish settlers arrived, was the economic base.

By the 1700s, the Seminole tribe, Alachua band, had settled also. The arrival of the railroad put Gainesville (literally and metaphorically) on the map. Citrus was added to cattle as a major economic and employment draw, at least until the great freezes of the late 1800’s that destroyed citrus in north Florida. When the University of Florida was founded in 1905, Gainesville found its identity as well, and ever since has been known as a premier "college town."

But back to being a tourist…. Let’s try “48 Hours in Gainesville.”

Lodging:

You can choose from about every hotel chain plus a surprising number of independents. The university has a hotel with their student union. A complete listing is available from the Alachua County CVB (352-374-5260) or e-mail info@visitgainesville.com or visit their website at www.visitgainesville.com.

I stayed at the Sweetwater Branch Inn, a local bed & breakfast that sprawled across a few historic properties, with gardens, patios and inviting front porches. Rates differ weekdays and weekends, range from under $100 to about $165, with varied amenities. I had a lovely mini-suite with a wide expanse of windows overlooking a patio. Breakfast was, of course, included, with daily changing specialties (no cold cereal here.) Decadent French Toast Casserole was more the norm, the kind of dishes you want to get the recipes for just in case you have overnight guests that you really want to impress. The Sweetwater exudes “Southern hospitality” and is conveniently located just blocks from downtown. It’s on a main street, so request a back room if you’re sensitive to traffic noise. The garden and patios are an oasis. I brought my breakfast out each morning to eat on the patio. 800-595-7760. www.sweetwaterinn.com.

What To Do (and this is just a sampling!):

Two of the best museums are conveniently located within steps of one another on the university campus. The Harn Museum of Art has an African collection (sub-Saharan Africa and West Africa), Asian and Modern collections, plus photography (emphasis on last 50 years), with visiting exhibits as well as rotating their permanent collections. It’s a stimulating and visually exciting space. The Camelia Court Café on the lower level serves tasty salads, sandwiches and tapas. www.harn.ufl.edu

Adjacent to the Harn is the Florida Museum of Natural History, a cutting-edge facility that can compete with the natural history museums of major cities. It is divided into halls that cover Waterways and Wildlife, Fossils and Evolution, Native Populations and Environments, and a stellar exhibit American Indian Art. While I explored every inch, I found myself drawn to the McGuire Center for Lepidoptera and Biodiversity, a four-story butterfly garden, complete with waterfalls, lush tropical plants, and thousands of butterflies. There is a research center, and visitors can watch scientists preparing specimens (see photos.) Kids and adults alike can spend hours in this museum. www.flmnh.ufl.edu

Paines Prairie Preserve State Park (www.prairiefriends.org or www.floridastateparks.org) just outside of Gainesville is a 20,000 acre wildlife sanctuary, dedicated to bringing back the prairie that existed before the settlers arrived. It is home to herds of bison and wild horses, expanses that are habitats for migrating birds, and there are hiking trails throughout. There’s a multi-storied observation tower set in moss-draped trees, a small museum and info center. I’d suggest taking at least one of the hikes out into the preserve, but start early and bring plenty of water if hiking in summer.

Just down the road from the entrance to Paines Prairie is Micanopy, a small town now filled with antique stores, a historic B&B and the some quaint cafes. It’s a good stop for lunch or a stroll. Visit the Micanopy Historical Society Museum for an “old feel” museum experience. No interactive high-tech here; it’s memorabilia plus.

The Marjorie K. Rawlings Historic State Park is in Cross Creek, south of Gainesville. It is an intimate look at rural Florida life in the 1930s. As a girl who loved “The Yearling,” I felt a connection with an author who inspired some of my childhood dreams. I also gained new respect for just how hard it was to live pre-air conditioning in the steamy back woods. Next time I go, I plan to pack a picnic and spend more time just soaking up the ambiance. It was a walk through an often unappreciated past. www.floridastateparks.org.

You cannot visit Gainesville and not spend a day or at least an afternoon in the crystal-clear waters of a natural spring. There are dozens in this part of north central Florida. Poe Springs Park is on the Santa Fe River, and has the usual amenities. University students flock to Ichetucknee Sate Park to tube the Ichetucknee. Tube stands line the road in for rentals. But go early in the morning (especially on weekends) as there is a limit to the number of tubers or boaters allowed per day on the river. Tubing “season” is from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

I like the unusual, and the Retirement Home for Horses (Mill Creek Farm) falls in that category. Nothing fancy, just a bunch of older, happy horses. Watching them relax makes you feel relaxed yourself, a calm peacefulness. Entry fee is a few carrots. Really: carrots. www.millcreekfarm.org

If you have kids, a must visit is the Morningside Nature Center, a Living History Family Farm of late 1800’s-early 1900’s Florida. www.natureoperations.org. The Santa Fe Community College has a zoo program, and a teaching zoo with guided tours on weekends or by appt. A unique and memorable zoo experience. Call 352-395-5604.

The Kanapaha Botanical Gardens (www.kanapaha.org) features 62 acres of specialty gardens. I never knew so many varieties of bamboo existed. Makes for a relaxing break. The water garden is a special treat.

Where to eat and drink:

College towns are known for great food. Gainesville is right up there with the best of them.

If you aren’t sure what you feel like, go to the corner of University and Main and start strolling downtown. You’ll find about ten to choose from, a cluster of downtown favorites, all local and all good, from sushi to Italian to chi-chi Euro-bistro upscale. I had a late night supper at The Paramount, a chic café with an amazingly eclectic menu for so small a place. Food was outstanding, service attentive.

I usually avoid chains, but found Stonewood Grill and Tavern to be a treat. Very good food, good service, pleasant ambiance, All this next to a mall! Who knew?

Head for S.W. 13th St. for assorted Asian restaurants. La Tienda is a Latino market, with a very-basic but authentic café inside.

For nightlife, downtown is also the best place to begin. Durty Nelly’s Pub is an Irish pub, very popular, featuring Irish music on weekends. Lillian’s has been around for decades and is an old-time local drinking mecca. The Market Street Pub makes their own beer and the college crowd mixes with local professionals folks both day and night. There are plenty of bars, often with dancing.

For casual-but-so-good (try this when you go out to Paines Prairie) is the Blue Highway, a small pizza joint outside of town by Miconopy. Frank, the owner, was an established New York chef who tossed the fast-lane big city life for a slower pace and more down-time for family. His goal is to make the best pizza, Period. I think he’s accomplished his goal. Worth the drive, and it would be a sin to pass it and not stop.

Well, that’s a quick overview of Gainesville, The No. 1 City in the United States. You might disagree, but you have to visit before you get to vote.

Coming soon: Montreal … and wherever I end up in Europe. I'm thinking Prague. It sounds so exotic.