BoomerGirl Diary

Santa Ana, Calif. — She needed a new knee. And post-surgery recovery would be a challenge, but my friend Ania is no sissy.

She survived 30 years in the rough-and-tumble garment industry, producing millions of ladies' blouses that sold from coast to coast. Indomitable in business and steadfast in friendship, she has seen me through the births of my children and the deaths of my parents; marriages, heartaches and victories. We met at 19 and were college roommates. And every year since has brought us closer and closer together.

A few weeks ago and days before the surgeons took a saw to her knee I dropped by her house and left a stack of cookbooks. I asked her to thumb through the pages and pick out at least 10 soups that sounded delicious. I planned to prepare a soup for her once a week, but I wanted her to be the one to choose the recipes.

You see, Ania is a wonderful cook and has very discriminating taste buds. She knows what she likes. And what she doesn't.

And she's not shy about voicing her opinions. This is a woman who was willing to go to the mat over every tiny detail on the fabric patterns on the blouses she made. If the stripe was the wrong shade of periwinkle, or a fish's fin wasn't painted perfectly, it just wouldn't do.

It's the same with the dishes she eats. Everything has to be right. As for soup, it can't be just a hodgepodge of ingredients. The balance of flavor has to be right. She says soup shouldn't taste like just one overpowering ingredient. It should be a subtle marriage of ingredients. And the broth base shouldn't be flabby; she says it has to have "depth" to be delicious.

She wasn't terribly impressed with the recipes in the books I'd brought, but she folded down the corners of the pages she liked the best. I deviated from the plan by starting with a sure bet, a chicken noodle soup that I'd made for her in the past. A wise decision, I would come to find out.

Week One: Chicken Noodle Soup

Few things in a spoon define healing warmth like a good chicken soup. And I like this one because I fortify the stock with budget chicken thighs. I buy one of those humongous packages of thighs for about $4, then cut most of the meat from the bones and toss the bones into a pot with a couple of large cans of sodium-reduced chicken broth. After those meaty bones slowly simmer on low for one hour (with gentle bubbles barely forming at the edge of the pot), the stock is deliciously rich.

The bones are removed with a slotted spoon, and fresh vegetables along with the raw cut-from-the-bone thigh pieces are added and cooked until tender. Then wide egg noodles go in, as well as some sauteed mushrooms augmented with a little fresh lemon juice. At the last, salt, pepper and a smidgen of dried red pepper flakes are added to taste, along with minced fresh parsley and basil.

Ania said it was wonderful.

Week Two: Wild Rice Soup

She had dog-eared the corner of "The Culinary Institute of America – Book of Soups" (Lebhar-Friedman, $35) on Page 61. There, a lovely photo depicts a cream-based soup with cubes of carrots and celery plus jet-black grains of wild rice. The image took her back to a sales call she had made long ago in Minneapolis at the Target Corporate Headquarters. She had adored the wild rice soup she'd ordered at a hotel. She said she could still clearly remember the incredible taste and aroma.

I cooked the soup on Page 61, and after she sampled it, she made that unique Ania-esque sound that (in a sweet-yet-definitive way) says it's OK, but not great. It's a short, high-pitched "eeeeeh" that is followed by a tender smile, an almost musical sound that says "so-so."

She said the broth didn't have enough flavor and there should be more wild rice. I tasted it and had to agree. At home I added small cubes of leftover pork roast to the cast-off soup and fed it to my husband, Phil. He said it was delicious and finished off the not-enough-rice concoction with glee. Bless him. He washed the dishes while I pondered the next pottage.

Week Three: Mushroom Barley Soup

When it comes to building broth with character, few ingredients can lend more flavor than wild mushrooms. Chefs often grind dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms into a powder and use it to add depth to soup or sauce.

"The Gourmet Cookbook" edited by Ruth Reichl (Houghton Mifflin, $40) offered a recipe for Mushroom Barley Soup that uses reconstituted dried porcini mushrooms (available in 1-ounce packages at most supermarkets - usually in the produce section) and sliced fresh white mushrooms. The chicken broth is spiked with the strained liquid used to soften the dried mushrooms. It would render an inviting woodsy, almost-beefy flavor. A touch of soy sauce, sherry and garlic would bring even more interest.

Ania greeted a spoonful of barley and vegetables with an approving nod and thumbs-up gesture, not easy when propped up on crutches. It was week three, and her knee was improving. I suggested that it was the soup.

She grinned and suggested the next offering, one of her favorites, a French onion soup.

Week Four: French Onion Soup

I recommended Julia Child's recipe for Soupe a l'Oignon Gratinee, she countered with Ina Garten's formula ("The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook," Clarkson Potter, $32.50). She said Garten's recipe is faster to make. Plus, she said, it has more booze in it. Yes, a combination of wine, sherry and cognac does perk up a broth - even after most of the alcohol cooks off.

Garten's recipe called for 4 cups of beef stock and an equal amount of veal stock. Not in the mood to drive to Bristol Farms to ferret out the veal stock, I substituted canned sodium-reduced beef broth and a little chicken broth. After the broth cooked with the caramelized onions and assorted spirits, it tasted divine.

Ania said each spoonful gave her tummy a hug, and she complimented me on the way I had sliced the onions into thick slices by hand. She said she usually severs onions in the food processor, a procedure that slices them into thinner cuts. She liked the texture and taste of the thicker pieces.

Nice.

Next Week's Shoo-In: Triple 'C' Soup

Next week, the soup will be a vegetable puree made with plenty of celery root (often labeled by the French name, celeriac), a knobby bulb that tastes like celery times 10. The soup's celery taste is amplified by the addition of both common celery and celery seeds.

I know she will like it. It's based on a recipe she gave me long ago that produces a perfect blend of vegetables, herbs and broth.

It has plenty of depth to give it backbone. Just like my beloved friend.

Ina Garten's French Onion Soup

Yield: 6 servings

2 1/2 pounds yellow onions, halved, sliced 1/4-inch thick (8 cups)

1 bay leaf

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1/2 cup medium-dry Sherry

1/2 cup brandy or Cognac

1 1/2 cups good dry white wine

4 cups reduced-sodium beef broth

4 cups veal stock; see cook's notes

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Cook's notes: Veal stock is sold at Bristol Farms. I substituted 2 cups canned reduced-sodium chicken broth and 2 cups canned reduced-sodium beef broth for veal stock.

Procedure:

1. In large pot on medium-high heat, cook onions and bay leaf with butter for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions turn a rich golden brown. On my stove, I need to turn down heat to low after first 10 minutes to prevent onions from browning too quickly. Add Sherry and brandy; scrape up any browned bits at bottom or sides of pan; simmer uncovered 5 minutes. Add white wine and simmer, uncovered 15 more minutes.

2. Add broth (or broth and stock), salt and pepper. Turn heat to high and bring to boil; immediately reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Serve hot topped with Parmesan.

Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 107 (45 percent from fat), protein 3.8 g, carbohydrates 12.7 g, fat 5.3 g (saturated 1.5 g), cholesterol 15 mg, sodium 425 mg, fiber 1.1 g

Source: "The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook" by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, $32.50)

Chicken noodle soup

Yield: about 16 servings

4 pounds bone-in chicken thighs, skinned, most of meat cut off bones; see cook's notes

2 (49-ounces each) cans sodium-reduced chicken broth

1 medium onion, chopped

1 1/2 cups sliced peeled carrots

1 1/2 cups sliced celery

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

8 ounces dried wide egg noodles

1/3 cup minced fresh Italian parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil

Pinch dried red pepper flakes

Salt and pepper

Cook's notes: I buy a jumbo pack of chicken thighs at the supermarket. Bought in bulk, they are usually under a dollar a pound. After removing the skin, I turn the thighs over so that I can see the bone and cut off the meat on both sides (of the bone). Some meat is left behind on the bones, which adds flavor when bones cook with broth. I cut the boned meat crosswise into 3 or 4 pieces and refrigerate it while making stock. This recipe makes a lot of soup, and that's a good thing. Freeze leftovers in small batches for emergency meals. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator.

Procedure:

1. To make fortified stock, place broth in large pot; add thigh bones and bring almost to boil on high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and gently simmer 1 hour, skimming off any scrum that floats to top with a large spoon.

2. Remove bones with slotted spoon. Add onion, carrots, celery and boned chicken pieces. Simmer 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat butter or oil in large skillet on medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms brown and liquid evaporates. Stir in lemon juice.

4. Add mushrooms and noodles to soup. Simmer 5 minutes or until noodles are tender. Stir in parsley, basil and pepper flakes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 120 (56 percent from fat), protein 3.4 g, carbohydrates 9.3 g, fat 7.4 g (saturated 2.1g), cholesterol 18 mg, sodium 540 mg, fiber 0.8 g

Mushroom barley soup

Yield: 12 servings

1 ounce dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms

1 cup boiling water

1/4 cup olive oil

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 or 3 medium onions, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

2 pounds white mushrooms, trimmed, sliced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1/2 cup medium-dry Sherry

5 cups sodium-reduced chicken broth

5 cups water

1 cup uncooked pearl barley

8 carrots, peeled, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch thick slices

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled

Salt and ground black pepper

1/3 cup minced fresh Italian parsley

Procedure:

1. Place dried mushrooms in heatproof boil. Add boiling water and allow to sit for 20 minutes.

2. Lift dried mushrooms from soaking liquid and transfer to cutting board; reserve liquid. If using skiitakes, discard stems. Thinly slice mushrooms. Pour reserved liquid through a sieve lined with a dampened paper towel into another small bowl.

3. Heat oil in a 5- or 6-quart heavy pot over medium heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 30 seconds. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until pale golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Add white mushrooms, dried mushrooms and soy sauce; cook on medium-high heat, stirring, until most of liquid evaporates, about 10 minutes. Add Sherry and boil until evaporated, about 5 minutes.

4. Add broth, water, strained mushroom soaking liquid, barley, carrots and dried herbs; bring to boil on high heat. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in parsley.

Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 80 (26 percent from fat), protein 1.9 g, carbohydrates 11.7 g, fat 2.3 g (saturated 1.2 g), cholesterol 35 mg, sodium 362 mg, fiber 1.3 g

Triple "C" soup

Yield: 10 servings

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1 medium celery root, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks

5 stalks celery, trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 medium carrot, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 medium leek, white part only, washed, sliced

2 medium yellow onions, chopped

2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley

3 tablespoons minced fresh dill

Optional: 2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon

1/4 teaspoon whole celery seeds

1 teaspoon salt

4 cups sodium-reduced chicken broth

2 Yukon gold or russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch slices

2 cups half-and-half or nonfat half-and-half or nonfat evaporated milk

Freshly ground pepper and salt, to taste

Procedure:

1. In large pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add celery root, celery, carrot, leek and onions. Cook 1 minute, stir and reduce heat to low. Cover and cook 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables start to soften.

2. Remove lid and add herbs, celery seeds, salt and chicken broth. Increase heat to medium-high. Simmer 15 minutes, reducing heat if necessary to maintain simmer.

3. Add potatoes and half-and-half. Cover and simmer on low heat about 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender.

4. Carefully, because mixture is hot, puree in 3 or 4 batches in food processor fitted with metal blade. Taste and add more salt and/or pepper as needed.

Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 165 (45 percent from fat), protein 6.3 g, carbohydrates 16.4 g, fat 8.2 g (saturated 3.3 g), cholesterol 45 mg, sodium 875 mg, fiber 2.5 g

Source: "Melissa's Great Book of Produce" by Cathy Thomas (Wiley, $29.95)