BoomerGirl Diary

In my mind, the perfect fall dinner involves pork and apples. I've gotten particular about the quality of pork these days. Nearly all the pork you find in the super market has been "enhanced." In other words, it has been injected with a solution of water, salt and sodium phosphate to "improve" flavor and tenderness. This trend came about when consumers began demanding leaner pork products. Leaner pork, coupled with consumer’s tendency to overcook it, brought about disappointing results in the kitchen. Pork processors began to enhance their products to ensure moist and tender results, even under poor cooking conditions. To me, injected pork tastes salty, and the added water makes it difficult to brown it properly. It also seems unnaturally tender, and the flavor is diluted.

A few years ago I got fed up with enhanced pork and went in search of something better. While shopping at the organic foods store in town, I discovered Beeler's "all natural" pork. According to their Web site (www.beelerspurepork.com), Beeler pigs are humanely raised without antibiotics or growth promotants and are never fed animal by-products. Their diets consist of vegetarian ingredients such as corn, soybean meal, vitamins and minerals. Beeler pork is minimally processed and contains no added preservatives or enhancers. Natural pork is tender and pleasantly chewy, naturally juicy and has a good porky flavor. It reminds me of the pork I ate growing up.

Sadly there are no local apples this fall where I live. A ruthless late-season cold snap pretty much wiped out the apple and other local fruit crops. Too bad for me because just about now, on a sunny autumn Saturday afternoon, I'd be heading out to my favorite local orchard to pick Jonathans, Jonagolds and Seek-No-Furthers. Nothing captures autumn like the joy of walking through an orchard loaded with fruit, plucking a ripe apple off a tree and biting into it. The aroma, the crunchy sweetness and the juice running down my chin reminds me that the taste of a fresh-picked apple is one of life's fundamental pleasures.

To celebrate autumn, I'm sharing a recipe that calls for my two fall favorites, pork and apples, and including my favorite mashed potato recipe to serve on the side. The next time you purchase pork, think natural, and when it comes to apples, if you are lucky enough to have an apple orchard nearby, think local.

Roasted Pork Rib Chops with Apples and Madeira

3 tart red apples

4 tablespoons butter, divided

1/3 cup Madeira

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 6-ounce bone-in natural pork rib chops, ¾ to 1-inch thick

salt & black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

Peel and core the apples. Slice each into 12 to 16 equal slices. Heat 3 tablespoon of butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the apple slices and cook, turning frequently until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

Heat 1 tablespoon of butter and 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a stainless steel skillet or braising pan (must be oven-proof) over medium-high heat. When hot, season the pork rib chops with salt and pepper and place them in the skillet. Sear the chops on one side until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the chops over and remove the pan from the heat. Spoon the cooked apples around the pork chops. Pour the Madeira over the pork and apples and quickly ignite, shaking the pan gently until the flames die out. (Or, pour the Madeira over the pork and apples and simmer for 1 minute over medium heat.) Sprinkle the rosemary and thyme over the pork and apples. Place the skillet in a 400 degree oven for 7 to 8 minutes, until the pork is cooked, but still rosy in the center.

Serve the pork chops and apples with the Crème Fraiche Mashed Potatoes. (Recipe follows.) Serves 6.

Crème Fraiche Mashed Potatoes

2 pounds Yukon gold or russet potatoes

2 teaspoons salt

1/3 cup half & half

2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup crème fraiche

salt & white pepper, to taste

Peel the potatoes and cut them into chunks. Place them in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Boil the potatoes until they are tender.

Heat the half & half and butter together in a small container in the microwave until the butter melts. Drain the water from the potatoes, leaving the potatoes in the warm pan. Mash the potatoes with a potato masher. Stir in the crème fraiche. Stir in as much of the warm half and half and butter mixture as needed to achieve the desired consistency. Season the mashed potatoes with salt and white pepper. Serves 6.